An Pernić

Pritisak, Rotpunkt 🔴 UNCUT VIDEO: https://youtu.be/yYD2fQeI3Rc I'm happy of ticking out this route in a session. The first try was just study and understanding the betas. Unfortunately at the second I fell on the last hard move. I was there in the afternoon and started pretty late, so I was left with one attempt only. After, the light would miss and the video would be far from ok. As stronger climbers before me said, without UNCUT it doesn't mean much (or anything). And I'm not talking about freedom, everybody can climb the way they want, but if we are talking about 'sport' climbing, than it should be treated as a sport. But this is a way to see it, not necessary the only way. So I committed and sent it on my third try. I prefer the near Sjedalica (on which I hold the FA) or No sun no fun (video out soon), but this is still a very enjoyable route. Curious fact, all the betas I used are actually the same I found on the first try with some micro changes.

Hellsbizeps, Rotpunkt 🔴, 2nd quickdraw preclipped. UNCUT VIDEO: https://youtu.be/cYmEJiBVnv8 Hellsbizeps is situated in BatCave, crag bolted in 2019 (I believe). The route has been bolted and first ascended by Bernie Ruech. I'm really proud of getting my ascent my way. First, I decided not to use a hold on the right, on the bottom part, because I feel like it belongs more to Boazn Kini. Second, I didn't use kneebars, the route is called Hellsbizeps, not Hellsknee (I'm kidding, I just prefer climbing without kneebars, if they can't be done without kneepads). And third, I got it done with two dynos in less than two minutes. I think none of the holds are chipped, but many are reinforced because the limestone here is really fragile. I preclipped the first two quickdraws for safety reasons, but the third still feels a bit risky for me. (and, by the way, it's 'Hellsbizeps' not 'Hells bizeps')

PlasticSwan is located next to its sister route, Peter Pan, on the right, and shares the very last bolt, the anchor, and the view, which is the best on Čepić. Although Peter Pan and PlasticSwan are close together, this time the rock offers a much more beautiful and slightly more difficult route that surprisingly doesn't touch Peter Pan's holds except for the final, easy section. The route has a unique character, defined by two monos (perhaps for those with smaller fingers, they could be two-finger pockets) as well as by the overhanging crimps and slopers further down. The route is new, so care must be taken not to break any holds unnecessarily (even though they all seem very solid). We bolted PlasticSwan with the idea of ​​pre-clipping the first quickdraw, as you can see in the video: https://youtu.be/TzrnUvMkLi0 Bolted on: August 4 and 5 Climbed on: August 5

Callisto, FA, Rotpunkt 🔴 Zeus, consapevole del proprio ruolo nella vicenda, decise di aiutarla. Per sottrarla alla freccia mortale del figlio, la pose nel cielo, tramutandola nella costellazione dell'Orsa maggiore. Zeus, aware of his role in the affair, decided to help her. To save her from his son's deadly arrow, he placed her in the sky, transforming her into the constellation Ursa Major. UNCUT VIDEO: https://youtu.be/UMkTzVc9-yk Bolted on: July 29 Climbed on: July 29 Video taken: July 30

Since you'll find a short interview about the route at the end of the UNCUT, I'll take this opportunity to say a little about the crag, Dvigrad. It takes its name from the "two castles" in the valley. Dvigrad is the kingdom of snakes. Just this year, I've seen three different species, but I know of two more (sighted in previous years). Snakes shouldn't be disturbed (or worse, killed), because, aside from being dangerous, they're also very beneficial to the environment and the ecosystem. Certainly more than many people, especially those with no respect for the environment. For climbers of all levels, Dvigrad is primarily a winter crag. It has demanding, slabby routes, ranging from slides to slightly overhanging slabs, like Falsa Partenza. It has a unique style that often throws off first-timers. Many routes are considered undergraded, so it can be frustrating the first few times. Then you get used to the highly technical style and realize it was worth it. Unfortunately, some routes have been polished over the years. I found interesting information in this article, for those who want to know more: https://gognablog.sherpa-gate.com/manolo-secondo-gobetti-1/ UNCUT VIDEO: https://youtu.be/qj_0ZG0LVt0

It's a slab, sometimes overhanging, extremely technical route. Strength alone isn't enough. Finding the Betas was a real challenge. Luckily, if anyone wants to try it, it's now out on YouTube my UNCUT VIDEO: https://youtu.be/bmV_i26nTbM . The first two moves are some of the most beautiful I've ever done. Then the route continues intensely, without any real rest, until the last third. The limestone is fragile, so a little care and finesse will be necessary.

No sun no fun, Rotpunkt 🔴, second quickdraw preclipped UNCUT video: https://youtu.be/TPt9fWSR8Kg . In the guide this route is 7b+ and Pritisak is 7c. We all know that grades, especially in guides, aren't very trusty, and this couple of twins route make no exeption. Pritisac took far less tries than No sun no fun and felt easier (Note: NSNF is much more my stile and still felt harder). That's why I suspect some holds broke off, after the route was graded. So please, please, be carefull on this kind of rock, because it's fragile. Making any climbable route unclimbable would be really heartbreaking. But now let's talk about the route. It's divided in three parts. The first is very bouldery, has compressions, dynos, and it's slightly overhanging. The second one it's easy, good jugs on slab. The third and final part consists of a tricky, vertical and slightly scary slab. I consider No sun no fun, Pritisak and Sjedalica a sector on its own (it's officially part of the Amazona sector which include many other routes) because these three slabs are more HC style while the other routes in Amazona are more Dvigradish. It's not perfect as definition but if you have been to both HC and Dvigrad you will get what I mean. I'm the first (and for now only) to have ascented all of these tree routes.

Breaking bad, Rotpunkt 🔴 UNCUT VIDEO: https://youtu.be/lzCDbbX7m94

Peter Pan, Rotpunkt 🔴, second quickdraw preclipped Peter Pan is located at the Čepić crag, and is, for now, also the hardest route there. Despite its moderate difficulty, it hasn't seen many repeats. Perhaps because the crag attracts mostly inexperienced climbers, perhaps because the first few meters are strange and bouldery. Probably both. I must admit it's not one of my favorite routes; it doesn't have the best moves or the most dynamic, but it's something different, unusual. It has its own charm. I recommend trying it with the second quickdraw pre-clipped, for safety reasons. Although I sent the route on May 3rd, the video was re-recorded on May 9th because the previous one, due to the angle, didn't work well. Unfortunately, even then the last few meters aren't visible, but the route is basically over after the sixth quickdraw. Link to UNCUT VIDEO: https://youtu.be/84z3t92TjzA

A bit about Turnica and the crag The first routes—First, Gemby, Bugazza, Marina, and Žaba—were bolted in the early 1990s by local climbers, including Marino Medica, the brothers Flavio and Dario Gamboc and others. Years passed before other routes were bolted. This happened in the late 1990s and early 2000s, including Peter Pan (https://youtu.be/84z3t92TjzA) and Turnica. The routes were cleaned and bolted by Doriano and Tiziana Perhat (who run the Muntravo climbing club in Rovinj) and by my parents, Paride Pernić and Jasmina Jović. Turnica was bolted despite no one immediately being able to climb it, with the idea that, one day, someone good enough would succeed. Therefore, bolting it comfortably and precisely was difficult. When you clip, as would be obvious, the rope gets in the way of movement, and the route becomes impossible. Many climbers, misled by the grade suggested in the guidebook, choose to move left onto Terre sommerse and avoid the characteristic jump. However, the route was originally intended to be direct. I recommend pre-clipping the second quickdraw on Terre sommerse and then, carefully, clip the second one on Turnica (or you can pre-clip this one too if you feel unsure, as falling with the rope in your hand while clipping is not recommended). This way, the rope no longer hinders your movement. It should be noted that the belayer's skill is also essential. Final note: the crag is on private land. Climbing is permitted for now, but park in a civil way. Be polite and respectful, especially towards locals.

Krki Rotpunkt 🔴 Link to UNCUT VIDEOS: https://youtu.be/nH9Dc9875bI

Rotpunkt 🔴, 2nd quickdraw preclipped. Link to UNCUT VIDEO: https://youtu.be/vcFeJrUEVKE