Eiji Pernić

The start of the route has some small crimps that are difficult to hold with sweaty hands. You reach a flat hold and lean on some side steps to reach the crack, which continues to the top. Only two sections are to the left of the crack. The second section to the left, where you re-enter the crack, might be a bit scary, given that the quickdraw is quite low and to the right, but there's a solution. If you have trad Nuts, you can wedge one into the crack a little above the jammed rocks. The final section continues on large, good holds, allowing you to enjoy the entire route until the end. The route isn't my favourite style, but it challenged me, and as I said before, I saw and experienced how a section of trad climbing works, which I found very interesting. The only problem was that, when I needed to remove it, the Nut got stuck there and wouldn't come out.

This route is special because when you pass by it, it's hard to miss due to its beautiful, lightning-shaped crack, which extends from the start of the route and almost ends it. At first, the crack is too narrow to climb, so you start to the right, on an immediately intense slab, traversing on small crimps, mostly sloping, and the same for the feet. From there, you progress into the crack, where you find better holds, but with longer moves, with some really good rests, where you have to regain strength in your fingers because the last section takes you back a bit to the right, on a completely different slab. That's my favourite part, because it's characterized by small holes, located on a large black drip. The moves are just what you want them to be, because there will always be a few smaller holes for those who don't want to stretch, but you can also do some nice, long moves. Personally, I go for a middle ground.

First Quickdraw Preclipped