The village of Čepić overlooks the picturesque dolina, a karst valley typical of the Gornja Bujština landscape. On the dirt road that connects the two, lies a shady canyon with the nice summer crag of Čepić.
The Čepić crag offers routes on a surprisingly hard limestone. The holds go from open hand slopers to very small crimps and pockets. The climbing style is technical and bouldery yet pretty specific, that's why we listed ten best routes to start with.
Routes are relatively short (7m-15m) and mostly vertical or easy slab suitable for beginners.
Despite the majority of routes are relatively easy, there are a few harder technical routes. Finding the betas might be a challenge because the routes are very unique, but that adds to their beauty.
Most routes are well protected with resinated or stainless steel expansion bolts.
Best seasons
The best seasons to climb at Čepić are spring, summer and autumn. In winter it gets cold and humid. Summer is hot and the conditions are not the best, but it's far better than anywhere else here around.
If it rains, the crag will need some days to dry.
If the routes are wet do not climb them, the holds break off much more easily if wet, especially small holds and conglomerates.
If it rains a lot the valley will flood.
Sector A
Exposure: E
Sun/Shade: from 9:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. under sun
Approach time: 7 min
The sector is located in a canyon, so you can always find some routes in shadow, since one wall makes shadow to the other.
Only during the period of zenith sunshine, for about 1 hour, the canyon is in the sun. During that time, you can climb in Sector C, which is in the shade.
The best conditions for trying the hard routes in Sector A during the summer are from 6:40 a.m. to 10:00 a.m.
Sector B
Exposure: W
Sun/Shade: from 11:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. under sun
Approach time: 7 min
The sector is located in a canyon, so you can always find some routes in shadow, since one wall makes shadow to the other.
Only during the period of zenith sunshine, for about 1 hour, the canyon is in the sun. During that time, you can climb in Sector C, which is in the shade.
Sector C
Exposure: NE
Sun/Shade: from 7:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. under sun
Approach time: 8 min
This sector is located outside the canyon in an open space and is a continuation of the Sector B wall.
After 11:30 a.m., the sector is in the shade until evening.
For families
The crag is very family friendly, and it's a destination for many families with small kids from all around the world. The parking is big, the access and approach are easy. There is a lot of space in the canyon and in the valley, and the routes suit anybody’s level of climbing, going from 3 to 8a.
Recommended routes
We stilled a list of ten very enjoyable routes, for every level of climbing, that we believe to be the best to start with at Čepić:
1) Ohio 5a (Very suitable for beginners)
2) Lichene 5a+ (Nice route with a beautiful end section)
3) Katmandu 5b (Still easy, but offers a more vertical climbing in the first part)
4) Firs 5c (Absolute classic of the crag, one of the first routes <3 )
5) Bugazza 6a+ (Another classic, old route with pretty movements)
6) Terre Sommerse 6b+ (Many holds, suitable for everybody)
7) Develottati 6c+ (Supper slabby route on limestone: finger strength and good footwork :) )
8) Zeus 7a (Simply one of the best routes in the crag)
9) Callisto 7a+ /b (The bouldery one, very morpho, easier for tall climbers)
10) PlastcSwan 7c+/8a (A beautiful line with a big variety of holds, first quickdraw must be preclipped)
