Acantilados de Toix

Although the logical thing would have been to include the following walls as three more sectors of the Sierra de Toix, the extraordinary singularity of these cliffs, which makes them one of the most exotic and spectacular places in all of Costa Blanca, makes it necessary for this area to have its own section within this region of the Marina Alta.

Without any doubt, you are facing one of the most amazing crags in this area. It contains three sectors located on the sea cliffs themselves, conforming the impressive morro de Toix: Candelabros del Sol, Monerrisa and Piratas del Caribe, providing a series of climbs you can hardly find anywhere else. Its main peculiarity is that its approaches are through separate rappels, both very aerial and spectacular. In the same way, you can only leave these sectors through the climbing of their routes or, in the case of Candelabros, using an atypical metal ladder installed more than 70 years ago by the ancient fishermen of the area.

Both sectors include a set of lines of outstanding quality, although they are most famous thanks to the Rowland’s Magical Mystery Tour (R.M.M.T), Erikindia and Parle routes, three itineraries with three ´easy´ pitches that bring together, almost daily, a big number of ropes. In Candelabros del Sol, in addition to R.M.M.T., you will find more than 40 overhanging routes from 6b + to 8b, a limestone rock that could very well be confused with sandstone; and shapes and grips that you may have hardly seen in any other crag.

Its belaying spots are reasonably comfortable, and the sea, no matter how rough it is, will never pose a threat to your activity. The Monerris sector is a small nook located halfway between Candelabros and Piratas. It features only three routes of two and three pitches, graded from 6a+ to 7b+, and is the newest of the sectors described here.

Finally, Piratas del Caribe also presents a great set of sport climbing routes (not topoed), although the precarious state of its equipment together with an almost abandonment of its climbs, make Parle, recently re-equipped, the only route that still registers some activity in this sector.

Its first routes, among which you can find the iconic Candelabros del sol and R.M.M.T., date back to 1989 and were the artwork of the British duo formed by Rowland and Mark Edwards. Its traditional British style did not sink in among the climbing community in the area and, despite some sporadic new openings, only the R.M.M.T., re-equipped in 2013 by Hagen Goetzke, would save this place from falling into absolute abandonment.

In the early 2017, Olivier Bousquet rediscovered its tremendous potential and launched, along with Roberto López, Miguel Seoane and Matt Pascoe, the massive equipment of its impressive walls over the sea. Monerris was opened in 2021 by Omar Samper and Vicente Monerris, who created Erikindia, the star line of the area. Later, Richard Mayfield and friends bolted two additional routes, completing the current selection of climbs offered in this unique corner.

Piratas del Caribe was discovered in 2002 by the local Agustín Gómez and initially developed by the British Richard Mayfield, bolting four lines among which you can find the aforementioned Parle.